Signs Your Clutch Is Failing

Slipping: the revs climb but the car does not

The textbook sign is a clutch that slips under load. You press the accelerator, the engine speed rises, and the car does not pick up speed to match, or does so after a delay. It tends to show up first in higher gears, going uphill or when overtaking, because that is when the clutch has to transmit the most torque.

A slipping clutch generates heat and the friction material wears faster the longer it is driven that way. If you notice it, it is sensible to avoid heavy loads and get it looked at soon, rather than carry on until it will not pull at all.

Slipping is often easiest to spot when the car is loaded, such as with passengers, a boot full of tools or a trailer on the back, or on a long incline. Make a note of when it happens and tell the garage, because those details help narrow down whether the clutch is the cause.

A high or changing biting point

The biting point is where the clutch starts to take up drive as the pedal rises. When the friction plate wears thin, the point moves higher up the pedal travel, so the clutch only seems to grip when your foot is almost off it. Some drivers also notice the point has become vague or has crept without any single moment of change.

A biting point that moves around from day to day can mean something different, such as a hydraulic fault or air in the system, which is covered separately. It is a good reason for a proper inspection instead of assuming.

• Pedal grips only at the very top of its travel
• Needing more revs to pull away smoothly
• Biting point that seems to move between journeys
• Pedal that feels different when hot compared with cold

Judder, burning smells and difficult gear changes

A shudder when pulling away, especially in first or reverse, can come from a contaminated or overheated friction surface, a warped pressure plate, a worn flywheel or even a worn engine mounting. Oil from a leaking engine or gearbox seal can soak the friction plate and make it grab and slip unpredictably.

A hot, acrid smell, something like burning toast, is the friction material overheating, often after hill starts, heavy traffic or a slipping clutch. Difficulty selecting gears, or a crunch going into first or reverse when stationary, may mean the clutch is not fully disengaging. That can be caused by wear, a hydraulic fault or a problem within the clutch assembly itself.

Is it definitely the clutch?

Not always. Engine problems such as a lack of power from a turbo or fuel fault can feel like slipping, because the car simply does not accelerate. Sticking brakes can mimic it too. Gearbox faults and worn engine mountings produce clunks and judder that people blame on the clutch.

A garage will road test the car, check the pedal and the hydraulics, and may check for oil leaks nearby before concluding the clutch needs replacing. That diagnosis step matters, because replacing a clutch without finding a leaking seal behind it means doing the job twice.

Why early diagnosis helps

If caught early, a clutch fault may turn out to be something smaller, such as a hydraulic problem, a cable adjustment or a release bearing noise. If left to wear down further, the friction plate can score the flywheel and pressure plate, which makes the repair bigger. Delay can also mean the clutch fails at an inconvenient moment, such as when you are in traffic or towing.

At Banks of the Tyne in Hebburn we handle clutch repairs, clutch replacement and flywheel replacement, and we would rather talk through what we find than push you toward a bigger job than you need. What it costs depends on the vehicle, the parts and how accessible the gearbox is.

Frequently asked questions