How a Clutch Replacement Is Done and What to Expect

Before the work starts

A good job starts with confirming the diagnosis. We road test the car, check the pedal and hydraulics, and look for oil leaks that might have contaminated the old clutch. There is no point fitting a new clutch if a leaking seal will soak it a week later, or if the real fault is a hydraulic one.

We then explain what we expect to renew. Final confirmation sometimes only comes once the gearbox is out, so we will tell you if what we find changes the plan.

It also helps to tell us about any symptoms you have noticed, such as judder, noise from the pedal or a smell of burning, and whether the car has been used for towing or loaded work. That context helps us understand why the old clutch wore the way it did.

Getting the gearbox out

The clutch lives between the engine and the gearbox, inside the bell housing. To reach it, the gearbox must be unbolted and moved away. Depending on the car, that involves lifting it, supporting the engine, disconnecting the gear linkage or cables, driveshafts, starter motor, electrical connectors and often exhaust and subframe components.

On some vehicles the engine and gearbox come out together or the work is done from above, and on others the subframe has to be lowered. This is why labour is the major part of a clutch job, and why it varies so much between vehicles. We do not give a time for it in advance, because it really does depend on the car.

What gets replaced

The standard clutch kit is the friction plate, the pressure plate and the release bearing. Depending on what inspection shows, other parts may be recommended at the same time.

Whether each is needed is a judgement we make when we can see them. We will tell you what we found and why we suggest it.

Many people ask whether they can wait and replace it later. If the clutch is slipping, that is not wise. Continued slipping can score the flywheel and pressure plate, which turns a straightforward job into a larger one.

• Friction plate, pressure plate and release bearing
• Flywheel, replaced or checked, especially dual-mass types
• Slave cylinder, where it sits inside the bell housing
• Crankshaft or gearbox input shaft seals if they are leaking
• Pilot bearing or spigot bush on vehicles that have one

Refitting and bedding in

Once the new parts are in, the gearbox is refitted and everything is reconnected, the hydraulic system is bled if needed and the clutch is tested. The input shaft splines are cleaned and lightly lubricated, and the clutch is centred properly so that the gearbox slides back in correctly.

A new clutch needs a period of bedding in, when the friction surfaces settle against each other. Drive gently for the first few hundred miles: avoid hard launches, heavy towing and slipping the clutch. It is normal for the biting point to feel slightly different from the old, worn one. If it feels wrong, or you hear a noise, tell us.

Driving afterwards

You will usually notice a lighter pedal and a smoother take-up, and the car will pull away without the slipping you had before. Some new clutches have a slightly higher or abrupt bite for a short time, which usually eases.

At Banks of the Tyne in Hebburn we handle clutch replacement along with flywheel replacement and clutch repairs. Cost depends on the vehicle, the parts and what the inspection finds, so ask us for an estimate that explains what is included, and we will tell you plainly if anything unexpected turns up.

Frequently asked questions