How to Look After Your Car's Bodywork Through a Tyneside Winter

Why salt and damp matter

Salt itself does not eat paint, but it speeds up rusting wherever the paint or protective coating has already been broken. It also clings to the underside and hidden corners, where it stays damp for long periods.

Coastal air carries its own salt, so cars parked near the sea get a further dose. That does not mean disaster, but it does mean paying attention to places where water and salt can sit.

Short, cold journeys add to the problem. The car never gets hot enough to dry out underneath, and moisture lingers in the sills and box sections. A drive that lets the car properly warm through now and then helps a little, though it is no substitute for washing the salt off.

Washing and the underside

Washing a car in winter is not vanity. It removes salt and grit before they do harm. Rinse first to loosen the dirt, since wiping gritty dirt across paint can scratch it, then wash with proper car shampoo and dry the car properly.

Do not forget the underside, wheel arches and sills. A rinse underneath, or a pressure wash used carefully from a distance, clears salt from places you cannot see. Washing after a particularly salty spell makes more difference than a thorough wash done once a month.

• Rinse before touching the paint with a mitt
• Clean wheel arches and sills where mud collects
• Rinse the underside after heavily gritted weather
• Dry door shuts, boot edges and rubber seals

Stone chips and small scratches

Winter roads throw up grit that chips paint on the bonnet, door edges and the front of the car. Each chip is an open door for moisture. Look over the front end every few weeks and note any chips that reach bare metal.

Small chips can be touched up or professionally repaired before rust gets in. Stone-chip repairs and scratch repairs are much simpler than dealing with corrosion later, so do not leave them to the spring.

Wax, sealant and protection

A coat of wax or sealant adds a thin barrier that helps water run off and makes salt easier to wash away. Apply it to clean, dry paint before the worst of the weather arrives, and topped up as it wears.

Protection will not cover damage that is already there, so fix chips first. If the paint is dull or lightly marked, paint correction can restore the surface before you protect it.

If you are going to polish or wax, give the car a few minutes of inspection first. Polishing over a hidden chip simply seals dirt in, and it is far easier to see problems on a clean, wet panel than on a dirty one.

Checking sills, arches and the alloys

Make a habit of looking at sills, wheel arches, door bottoms and the edges of the bonnet and boot lid. Bubbling paint, flaky patches and orange stains are early signs of rust. Press gently on suspicious spots, as soft or crunchy areas suggest the metal is going.

Alloy wheels suffer too. Salt and brake dust can pit the lacquer and cause corrosion, particularly where kerb damage has exposed bare metal. If your alloys look rough, ask about alloy wheel refurbishment or repair. At Banks of the Tyne we deal with rust and corrosion repairs and welding, though what can be done depends on how far the damage has gone.

Keep an eye on door drains and the small slots at the bottom of doors, which clog with leaves and silt. Water that cannot escape sits in the door and rusts it from the inside, which is exactly where you cannot see it. A gentle clear-out with a thin tool and a hose now and then is worth the effort.

Frequently asked questions