Alloy Wheel Refurbishment: What Is Involved, Step by Step

Inspection and removal

The work begins with a close look at each wheel. The repairer checks for cracks, bends, deep gouges and corrosion, because these decide whether the wheel can be refurbished at all. A wheel that is structurally unsound is a safety issue, not a cosmetic one.

The wheels are then taken off the car. Doing a proper refurbishment with the wheel still on the vehicle is not realistic, since the whole surface, including the inner barrel and the rim edge, needs to be accessible.

Take photographs of the wheels before they leave you, particularly if you are unhappy with the current condition. A before-and-after record helps when you are discussing the work, and it shows exactly which wheel was which if there were several different problems.

Taking the tyre off

To get at the rim edge properly, the tyre is removed from the wheel. This is the stage that lets the repairer work on the lip, which is where most kerb damage sits, and lets them paint right up to the bead without masking and leaving a ragged line.

It also means the wheel can be checked for slow air leaks around the bead seat, which are often caused by corrosion on the rim.

Stripping the old finish

The old paint and lacquer have to come off. Depending on the wheel and the condition of the finish, that might be done chemically, by media blasting or by careful mechanical sanding. The aim is bare, clean metal that new paint can grip.

Painting over old, flaking coatings is the classic shortcut that leads to peeling later. If a quote seems to skip stripping, ask why.

Wheels with a machined face or a special finish may need a different approach to stripping, so mention it when you ask for an estimate.

• Removes flaking lacquer and failing paint
• Reveals hidden corrosion and cracks
• Gives the new coating a sound surface to bond to
• Allows the true extent of any damage to be seen

Repairing the damage

With the wheel stripped, kerb scrapes, gouges and corrosion pits can be dealt with. Material is filled and smoothed where appropriate, and rough edges are blended back into the original profile. Wheel straightening may also be needed if the rim is bent.

Not every wheel can be repaired. If there is cracking or a serious distortion, the sensible option may be a replacement, and a responsible repairer will say so after inspection.

Priming, painting and lacquer

The prepared wheel is cleaned and primed to help the paint stick and to protect the metal. Colour coats go on next, followed by clear lacquer, which gives gloss and protection against brake dust, road salt and weathering. Some finishes, such as a machined or diamond-cut look, involve extra steps.

Each coat needs to cure properly. Rushing the curing can leave a soft finish that marks easily or loses its shine early.

Refitting, balancing and what affects the estimate

Once cured, the tyre is refitted to the wheel and the assembly is balanced, so it spins smoothly on the car. Balancing matters because refitting a tyre changes the weight distribution, and an unbalanced wheel can cause vibration at speed.

The wheels are then refitted to the vehicle, with the wheel nuts or bolts tightened to the correct specification. It is worth re-checking them after a short drive, which is good practice after any wheel has been removed.

The condition of the wheel, the type of finish, the amount of damage and whether you want a colour change all influence the work involved. Diamond-cut and polished wheels are more demanding than plain painted ones.

At Banks of the Tyne in Hebburn we carry out alloy wheel repairs and refurbishment, alloy wheel painting and wheel straightening. Ask for the process to be explained at the estimate, and find out which stages are included.

Frequently asked questions